Hair molecules have a structure consisting of many amino acid chains parallel to each other. These amino acid chains and polymeric structures are linked together by several bonds, which are as follows:
- Disulfide bonds
- Bridges between acid and base groups
- Hydrogen bonds
Disulfide bonds linking amino acid chains in hair can be broken in an alkaline pH environment.
For example, relaxer chemicals containing Caustic Soda contain hydroxide ions with the ability to attack disulfide bonds.
For hair straightening, disulfide bonds must be broken. This is achieved by changing the current positions of poly-peptide chains. Then, after rinsing and neutralization, hair straightening is completed.
To fix the hair, Hydrogen Peroxide is used. In this stage, the oxidation process is carried out with hydrogen peroxide.
Thiol-based reducing agents have a very bad odor. Therefore, if the neutralization steps are not performed properly, it causes hair breakage.
Consequently, when hair is curled, there is a need for formulas and processes that have positive results for the hair. Especially in curled hair, sought-after properties include long-lasting moisture, smoothness, and hair manageability. Adjusting the curl level and selecting the appropriate breaking capability is important. Additionally, thiol-based, odor-free formulas are indispensable.
The resulting method is an important composition for providing and determining the level of hair curling.
What is the Method for the Hair Curling Process?
Formulas made for curling hair include agents and kits containing hydroxides and formulas where these are used in combination. This hair curling formula is used to control the curl level applied to the hair. In some applications, this formulation can be applied several times to change the curl level in the hair.
The hair curling method here includes a step of reshaping the hair during or after the application phase, before any formula containing one or more active agents or one or more hydroxides is applied.
This method includes active agent formulas that interact with keratin through one or more bonding pathways and react with substances in the hair having one or more nucleophilic properties, such as thiols.
The bonding method here refers to the formation of ionic or hydrogen bonds in a covalent structure. Active substance formulas have the ability to provide improved care for the hair, while keeping the hair in a degreased, moist form and smooth for a long time. At the same time, they can provide dry strength and ensure easy combing after the hair drying process.
This method also reduces hair breakage. This method is applied to reduce static electricity occurring in the hair.
The hair curling method here helps prevent the damage caused by hydroxide-containing agents within the agents applied to the hair, rather than just controlling the curl level.
The pH of the composition in these formulations should be a minimum of 9.50. In some formulations, the pH of the composition is above 11.
Hair Wrapping and Curling Composition Includes the Following Substances
- Surfactants
Surfactants may contain detergents and soaps. These surfactants can be amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants.
These surfactants include, but are not limited to, the following:
- 3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid
- Almondamide
- Almondamidopropyl Betaine
- Almondamidopropylamine Oxide
- Aluminum Hydrogenated Tallow Glutamate
- Aluminum Lanolate
- Aminoethyl Sulfate
- Lauryl Glutamine
- Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate
- Ammonium C12-15 Pareth Sulfate
- Ammonium C12-16 Alkyl Sulfate
- Ammonium C9-10 Perchloroalkyl Sulfonate
- Ammonium Caprylate Sulfate
- Ammonium Monoglyceride Sulfate
- Ammonium Sulfate Isethionate
- Ammonium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Ammonium Cumene Sulfonate
- Ammonium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate
- Ammonium Isostearate
- Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate
- Ammonium Laureth-12 Sulfate
- Ammonium Laureth-5 Sulfate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Myristyl Sulfate
- Ammonium Oleate
- Ammonium Polyacrylate
- Ammonium Stearate
- Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate
- Amidopropyl Betaine
Anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, carboxylates, sulfonates, and sulfate ions. Among these anionic surfactants are the long-chain alkyl sulfonate salts of sodium, potassium, and ammonium. These include dialkyl sodium sulfosuccinates such as sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, alkyl aryl sulfonates, and sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate. Alkyl sulfates such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.
Cationic surfactants include compounds such as Benzalkonium Chloride, Benzethonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Bromide, Stearyl Dimethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride, Polyoxyethylene, and Coconut Amine.
Nonionic surfactants include:
- Ethylene Glycol Monostearate
- Propylene Glycol Myristate
- Glyceryl Monostearate
- Glyceryl Stearate
- Polyglyceryl 4-Oleate
- Peg-150 Laurate
- Peg-400 Monolaurate
- PEG-1000 Cetyl Ether
- Polyoxyethylene Tridecyl Ether
- Propylene Glycol Butyl Ether
Amphoteric surfactants include:
- Sodium N-Dodecyl-β-Alanine
- Sodium N-Lauryl-β-Iminodipropionate
- Myristoamphoacetate
- Lauryl Betaine
- Lauryl Sulfobetaine
The surfactants here can optionally be used in the range of 0.1% to 15%.
- Emollients
Emollients are substances that protect the skin against wetness and irritation, and have the ability to coat and soothe. Emollients also have cleaning capabilities. Suitable emollients include silicone compounds, sorbitol, glycols, and polyols.
They are as follows:
- Propylene Glycol
- 1,3-Butanediol (1,3-Butylene Glycol)
- Hexylene Glycol
- Isoprene Glycol
- Xylitol
- Ethylhexyl Palmitate
- Caprylic Triglyceride
There can be more than one emollient in the formula. The total emollient used can be between 1% and 10% of the total weight.
- Emulsifiers
One or more emulsifiers are present in hair wrapping and curling formulas. The most ideal emulsifying agents for these applications are as follows. There may also be different emulsifying agents.
- Stearic Acid
- Polysorbate-20
- Ceteareth-20
- Lecithin
- Glycol Stearate
- Polysorbate-60
- Polysorbate-80
Emulsifiers are used in the formula in the range of 0.1% to 10% alone or in combination.
- Preservatives
One or more preservatives are used in the formulation to prevent microbial growth.
- Preservatives containing Glycerin
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Phenoxyethanol
- Benzyl Alcohol
- Parabens
- Methylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Benzoate
- Ethylenediamine Tetraacetic Acid (EDTA)
- Potassium Sorbate
- Salicylic Acid
- DMDM Hydantoin
- Formaldehyde
- Sorbic Acid
- Zinc Pyrithione
- Benzalkonium Chloride
- Sodium Salicylate
- Sodium Sulfite
- Citric Acid
The usage rate of preservatives in the formulation can vary between 0.1% and 5%.
- Thickening Agents
Thickening agents can be used in the formula alone or as a combination of several. They are as follows:
- Silicone-based agents
- Panthenol
- Chlorhexidine Digluconate
- Retinyl Palmitate
- Cyclopentasiloxane
Thickening chemicals are used in the formula in the range of 0.01% to 5%.
- Diluents/Thinning Agents
As the name suggests, a diluent is the component used to dilute the active substance. The most commonly used diluent component is the Water molecule. In addition, Ethyl Alcohol and Isopropyl Alcohol are used. Ethyl alcohol and Isopropyl Alcohol are used in this application to provide penetration into the hair and skin.
- Viscosity Enhancers/Thickening Agents
In this formulation, the thickening/viscosity enhancing agent is not used more than 1%. Viscosity enhancing agents are as follows:
- Polyethylene Glycol (Viscous Liquids)
- Carbomer 940
- Carbomer 980
- Carbomer 990
- Silicon Dioxide
- Antioxidants
Antioxidants used in hair wrapping and curling formulas can be used alone or in combination.
- Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate)
- Vitamin E
- Ascorbic Acid
- Butyl Hydroxy Toluene (BHT)
- Ascorbyl Palmitate
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
- Triethyl Citrate
- Arbutin
- Kojic Acid
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
- Sodium Metabisulfite
- Opacifying Agents
Opacifying agents are used to provide an opacity effect on these formulations.
- Glycol Distearate
- Ethoxylated Fatty Alcohol
How is Hydrogen Peroxide used for hair bleaching?
The use of hydrogen peroxide to bleach hair is generally done for the purpose of lightening the hair color or coloring specific areas of the hair. However, hydrogen peroxide is a strong chemical that can damage the hair and must be used correctly.




